For the English in the 18th and 19th centuries, colored semi-precious gemstones such were considered appropriate for daytime wear with citrine, pink topaz, aquamarine and the ever popular garnet included. For evening,more precious gemstones as well as pastes were the choice for the fashionable.
We are most fortunate to be able to offer a spectacular garnet parure of necklace, pendant, bracelet and earrings featuring the delightful and symbolic pansy theme. The pansy is a popular flower used for centuries as a jewelry motif. Often associated with affection and loving remembrance as in thinking of you, it is believed that the flower was confused with the French word “pensee” — meaning thought. Even Shakespeare referenced such symbolism when Ophelia stated “and then there is pansies, that’s for thoughts.”
Allow yourself a moment to drink in the glory of this fabulous collection incorporating a total of two hundred-forty (240) flat cut almandine garnets all in 15k rose gold pinched collets, set closed back and foiled. The suite is accompanied by an antique box of the period not original to the set.
The necklace is composed of seventeen (17) five petal pansy flowers and oval spacers consisting of one hundred-nineteen (119) of those purplish red gems the color of a fine claret. The piece drapes along the top of the clavicle just brushing the skin. A detachable pendant in a modified cruciform configuration with a central gold hook for suspension is made up of a star or foliate element and four pansy flowers of forty-one (41) garnets.
The theme continues with a bracelet echoing the theme with forty-nine (49) almandine garnets forming seven pansy flowers with oval spacers and earrings each with two pansies of nineteen (19) garnets. The bracelet sports a safety chain.
ITEM 16882
Georgian Garnet Pansy Parure
Date: Circa 1820.
Measurements:
Necklace is 17-1/2 inches (44.5 cm) in length by 11/16 of an inch (1.8 cm) at the widest. Weight of 31.8 grams.
Pendant is 2-1/16 inches (5.3 cm) in length including bale by 2 inches (5.0 cm) in width. Weight of 7.5 grams.
Bracelet is 7-1/2 inches (19.0 cm) in length when worn by 5/8 of an inch (1.4 cm) in width. Weight of 12.3 grams.
Earrings are 2-1/4 inches (5.5 cm) in length including ear wire by 9/16 of an inch (1.3 cm) in width. Weight of 6.6 grams for the pair.
Condition: Excellent for its age; gold work and gemstones are fine; earrings are formerly day night with back to front ear wires now replaced with shepherd's hook fittings; bracelet has a later safety chain added. Two oval garnets at the end of the necklace appear to be slightly later additions. The box is not original to the set but is of the time period; box is in fair condition.
Origin: English.
