Object Name: Croquet Skirt
Date Created: 1865-1870
Place of Creation: Europe, United Kingdom, England
Material: wool,cotton,velvet,cashmere
Technique : appliqued,machine stitched ,hand stitched
Measurements: Whole height: 110cm
Waist height: 66cm
Circumference (hem)
height: 230cm
Object description
White twilled wool and cotton mixture - raw cotton warp, merino wool weft with narrow vertical black stripes. The waistband is of black velvet trimmed with red braid and the hem is edged with scarlet cashmere with applied bands of diamond and tab motifs in black velvet edged with red, white and yellow braid. Probably worn for croquet. Weft threads are disintegrated in patches at front.
Display label
The term "appliqué" is derived directly from the French word for "applied" and refers to any decoration cut from one piece of fabric which is then sewn to another. This seemingly very simple technique can lend itself to a wide range of final appearances, so that one piece of appliqué can look very different from another depending on the type of fabrics and stitch used, and on where this type of decoration is used. It can be particularly effective using bold striking coloured panels on an otherwise plain ground, as in the scarlet and black applique tabs on the croquet skirt below. This bold bulky collar has been created using complex techniques, and has been applied to a black woman's coat or jacket of about 1905, using its contrasting colours to give immediate impact. The applied pieces of fabric have been hand embroidered with orange and yellow motifs before being cut out and sewn to the collar with black thread. The garment is thus entirely defined by its extravagant collar, the body of the coat being plain black wool. Similar decoration of the same date and creating the same impression, has also been used on waistcoat fronts attached to the grey silk suit.
Manchester Art Gallery